16th June 2013
PHILLIP LIM & THE EVOLVING TREND OF ANDROGYNY
It is no secret that summer has been dominated by urban boyish tailoring and the desire for women to dress both masculine and feminine. Statement boyfriend trousers and oversized blazers represent the ambiguity of society’s boundaries and most importantly, the way in which masculine-feminine boundaries too, are no longer distinct as they once were. What was previously deemed ‘unacceptable’ has now become one of the most significant trends of summer 2013.
Phillip Lim’s take on androgyny and cross-dressing is illuminated through his 2014 spring/ summer collection. I myself, cannot deny that he has encapsulated the beauty of boundary-pushing. While admittedly he may be my new addiction, his collection stirs the intrigue in girls who aspire to look effortlessly dressed. Not only does he re-establish that one must take risks in order to be different, but he also portrays the incongruity that accompanies ‘mannish’ dressing, and essentially the power that the question mark holds.
It is his combination of tailored trousers and oversized jackets-specifically being worn together- that excite attention. Even pencil skirts are layered with boyish tailoring and contribute to the overall ‘chic’ and sexualised image of masculinity for females. Rather than masculine dressing seeming ‘genderless’, we are wholly or at least a little, converted by the excitement of Lim’s refusal to conform. In this case, too much is not enough.
Phillip Lim SS2014